The secret behind effective moisturizing care

Why is water so essential for our skin?

Virtually every skincare tip emphasizes the importance of moisturizing the skin. It's a staple in every routine – regardless of the season or skincare goal. But why is that? Is water the cure-all for our skin? And if so, why are there so many active ingredients and skincare products?

As is so often the case, the answers to these questions are complex, and hydration isn't the sole solution. Just like the human body itself, the skin is also composed of about 70 percent water. This high percentage alone explains a lot. It seems logical that moisture reserves must be constantly replenished and not allowed to "deplete" if water is such an integral part of the skin. Approximately one-tenth of the water in the skin is located in the stratum corneum. There, it forms the liquid part of the hydrolipid film. This also clearly explains why water isn't the only panacea, because the name hydrolipid film is ultimately composed of two important components. The necessary lipids are essential. Liquid and fatty components form a kind of framework within the hydrolipid film, supporting each other. Without the lipid component, this system wouldn't function, and water could escape from the skin almost unhindered. That would be disastrous, because water fulfills many other important functions in the skin. We'll look at exactly what these are in the next section.

What functions does moisture perform in the skin?

As already mentioned, water, along with lipids, is a major component of the hydrolipid film. But even beyond that, moisture is essential for maintaining the skin's internal structure. Furthermore, water provides a suitable medium for many substances – acting as a kind of "transport medium" – by absorbing these substances and carrying them into the skin. Water is also involved in countless metabolic processes. Without sufficient moisture, our skin would have a completely different appearance, because moisture makes the skin smooth, supple, and plump, thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Components of a good moisturizing care product

Just like the hydrolipid film itself, a moisturizer should consist of two elements: water-binding humectants and water-repellent lipids. This may sound contradictory at first. However, both components have their purpose and do not interfere with each other's effectiveness. The humectants find their way into the skin, where they bind water and attract it from the surrounding environment. So-called NMFs (Natural Moisturizing Factors) are particularly effective, and we will examine them in more detail in the next section. The lipids in moisturizers are also called occlusives. This name comes from the fact that they form a film on the skin that locks in moisture and prevents it from escaping easily. Active ingredients that resemble the skin's own substances are well-suited as occlusives. Vegan squalane, for example, is a good choice due to its similarity to squalene, a substance found in the skin. Jojoba oil has a structural similarity to natural sebum and is therefore a good choice as a lipid in moisturizers. A balance between moisturizers and occlusives in creams is important to maintain the balance of the hydrolipid film.

Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs)

Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs) are substances naturally present in the skin that attract water. The concentration of NMFs in the skin decreases continuously with age. Unfortunately, this process begins as early as the early to mid-twenties. To keep skin healthy and moisturized, it's beneficial to replenish NMFs through daily skincare. Most moisturizing creams contain at least one NMF, and probably several. This is a good thing, as these moisturizing ingredients work synergistically. Therefore, it makes sense not to rely on just one active ingredient, but rather on complexes of ingredients or even several products that complement each other. Our favorite NMFs are:

1. Hyaluronic acid : This is an acid. Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, in particular, penetrates deep into the skin. Hyaluronic acid can retain enormous amounts of water, thus providing long-lasting hydration and consequently contributing to younger-looking skin.
2. Glycerin: The name derives from the Greek word for "sweet," as it is a sugar alcohol. Glycerin is one of the best-known humectants – not only in skincare. In skincare, it binds moisture in the skin and reduces water evaporation.
3. Pentylene glycol: This is also an alcohol with water-binding properties. In creams, however, pentylene glycol serves another purpose: it also acts as a preservative, which extends the shelf life of the products. Additionally, this alcohol has the advantage of not causing irritation or blemishes.
4. Urea: This substance, also known as carbamide, is a natural product of metabolic processes. While urea might not sound particularly appealing at first, it's an integral part of our skin and performs many beneficial functions. Besides its ability to retain moisture, urea also soothes and smooths the skin by promoting the shedding of dead skin cells.

Good to know: Although alcohols have a reputation for being dehydrating, this is usually not the case with alcohols used in skincare. In fact, many alcohols have a hydrating or otherwise nourishing effect.

Other moisturizing agents

Besides NMFs, there are other active ingredients that are moisturizing or synergize well with NMFs. Aloe vera, in any form, has a moisturizing effect and also soothes irritated areas on dry skin. Our Aloe Vera Spray in the practical spray bottle can easily be sprayed onto the skin after cleansing and before applying moisturizing serums. Vitamin C is also particularly effective in combination with active ingredients like hyaluronic acid, as it also strengthens the skin's structure. While our Vitamin C 15 Booster is suitable for almost all skin types, the Vitamin C 20 Booster is specifically designed for the needs of dry and dehydrated skin and has a moisturizing effect. To moisturize your skin before applying a moisturizing serum, you can, of course, also pat it with ordinary water. Apart from skincare products, it is essential for the skin to receive water from other sources as well. We can moisturize the skin from the inside by drinking enough water throughout the day. Even a seemingly trivial act like showering is important for the skin's moisture content. Occlusive and moisturizing creams therefore work particularly well when the skin is still slightly damp from showering.

What forms does moisturizing care come in?

Moisturizers come in a wide variety of forms, packaging, and textures. The lightest form is a hydrating serum, which is applied early in the routine. Its ingredients are highly concentrated and particularly effective. To complete the routine, there are several alternatives. Fluids have a light texture because they contain fewer lipids. This makes them especially suitable for people who prefer a light formulation. Moisturizers can also have a gel-like texture. Similar to fluids, this type of moisturizer is also light and absorbs quickly. The most well-known are classic moisturizing creams. These generally contain more lipids than the other forms mentioned. However, the composition can still vary considerably, so the finished products can range from lightly creamy to extremely rich. Creams are further divided into day and night creams, which are specifically tailored to the skin's needs during the waking and sleeping phases of the body. Some of the daytime versions are already tinted, so you can either skip the makeup altogether or already have a really good foundation.

Excursion: Textures

In the context of discussing different types of moisturizing care, we'd like to take a brief look at textures. The texture of a product can vary significantly and is crucial in determining for whom the product is ultimately suitable.

We generally distinguish between liquid and creamy textures. This distinction is valid, as the finished product falls into one category or the other depending on whether a formulation is primarily water- or lipid-based. However, even within these two main categories, viscosity can vary considerably. The consistency of a product—especially a new serum you're testing for the first time—is best assessed by dispensing a pump into the palm of your hand and then tilting it slightly to the side to see how easily the product moves on the skin. This quickly reveals how different seemingly similar textures can be. Among liquid serums, there are extremely watery textures that almost seem to run off your hand. Other liquid textures are less volatile and adhere more to the skin. Similarly, among creamy products, there are those that tend to run on the skin and have a lighter texture, and those that are so rich they retain their shape as a blob on the palm of your hand. There are also gel-like products. This consistency is somewhere between liquid and creamy. As a general rule, a product with more occlusives will be richer, while a formulation with more humectants will have a lighter texture.

For effective moisturizing, the consistency of the product is crucial for delivering active ingredients to the skin. Oily skin, for example, doesn't need a cream with added lipids, as it's naturally rich in them. Therefore, liquid, gel-like, and especially light, creamy textures are well-suited for this skin type. Dry skin, on the other hand, benefits from a product with extra lipids, as this skin type is precisely what it lacks. For combination skin, it's advisable to either use different products for different areas of the face or to focus on the more dominant skin concern. Depending on whether the oily T-zone or the dry cheeks are causing more problems, the skincare routine can be tailored accordingly.

Moisture content and skin barrier

The skin's moisture balance can never be considered completely independently of the skin barrier. Since we also want to dedicate a separate article to the skin barrier, we've focused here primarily on the importance of moisturizing ingredients in skincare. However, the fact remains: supplying the skin with moisture is only beneficial if the skin barrier can retain it. And the skin barrier is only stable with a balance of water and oils.